tbt: visit to Fromagerie

Restaurant Murano has the best cheese trolley – I can tell you that! Soon I will upload some nice pics from our cheese trolley. We constantly keep updating and ordering new exciting cheeses. Also follow season ofc.

Few weeks ago we visited Fromagerie, which is our only cheese supplier, and the best in London.


Cheese is to me a journey and a difficult one.

Here are some cheesy pictures from our visit.

Raw Fair 17 & 18 May 2015

As long as I have been working with wines I´ve always dreamed of going to such a big and crazy wine exhibitions like London Wine Fair etc. It surprised me when I realised that there´s 2 fair´s in `one week´ starting with a weekend and finishing next weeks Wednesdey. Let me just briefly say few words about Raw Fair. This independent wine fair was organised by Isabelle Legeron MW. It was a exquisite opportunity to meet and greet over 150 natural organic/biodynamic growers-artisans from all over the world. Emotions were way too high and I could feel everlasting moment of satisfaction of meeting producers I have admired for many years.

It has been few years now since I last tasted it. For me it is one of the best Cava´s on earth – the Recaredo. Tried new vintages and still loving it. In my opinion it is truly the collectors item at the moment. We are talking about 2 ha terroir based Xarel-lo which has unique micro climate + metodo champenoise.

As I moved to London it gave me enormous opportunity to discover new wines. One on my latest discoveries which went straight to my favourite list is Azienda Agricola Serragghia. What a tremendous and quirky producer. One of my favourites is Zibibbo. At the Raw Fair I was utmost pleased to meet the man himself – Gabrio Bini. The producer is located in a dreamy island of Pantelleria. http://www.serragghia.it/

As I continued to walk further I had to stop quit quickly because I just couldn´t walk without stopping by and meeting Don Chisciotte. Another brilliant and unique natural wine producer in the area of Alta Irpinia, near Calitri. From 1990, it was amongst the first farms in southern Italy which were converted to organic faming. They produce one of a kind Fiano variety wine which is certified organic. Don Chisciotte is 100% Fiano – 2 ha of vines, altitude 800 m, poor soil and a on harsh winds and extreme temperature changes. I had a chance to meet Nerina Zampaglione and her daughter. What a lovely warm people!! http://www.ildonchisciotte.net/

In our wine list at Murano there is one orange wine which I really like – Radikon. We have Radikon´s Pinot Grigio 2010. Amazing juicy-grape-ish wine. A wine which is not white coloured nor possess red ch. So when I ran into Radikon I just had to taste all of his cosmic wines.

Radikon is a crazy hell producer from North-Italy – Venezia-Giulia region, Oslavia. Run by Stanislav Radikon, his wife Suzana and son Saša. The wine itself is uncompromisingly natural! http://www.radikon.it/azienda

As I walked around I saw many old and new producers I know and lot of happy people sniffin-tasting natural wines. I felt happiness and gratitude.. Even met a good friend of mine from my home country Estonia – Ivo Luik. I have known since for many year now. Only person I know who is seriously into discovering some interesting bordeline natural / biodynamic wines. Always searching for something new. Big respect!

Some intresting people I saw..

One of the greates things was a chance to meet Peter Hahn. A man responsible of utterly the most fantastic Vouvray for my taste. http://www.lameslerie.com/

When I first tasted Clos de la Meslier I just couldn´ believe it. It had everything my senses and taste palate find appealing and therefore in my opinion priceless. I experienced at my work 2009 vintage on several occasions. I must admit the depth, lingering ripeness on the palate and amazing well integrated acidity makes it one of my favourites, top 3 denititely! At Raw Fair I had a chance to try younger vintages such as 2011, 2012.. The more younger it went, more time it needed. Younger vintages were too raw, but I could feel the great potensiality in them. Truly a collectors item. I will seek a opportunity and buy at least a case for the future. Big heart!

Thank you Isabelle Legeron for all of the magical work. Even now more and more I see and appreciate the true wines our ancestors drink.

The End

Moët UK Sommelier of The Year 2015 – regional finals

On Monday Moët UK Sommelier of the Year 2015 regional final was held in Grosvenor House. It all started few weeks ago with the first round. A questionnaire was sent out to each participant and we had time 7 days to complete it and send it back. This was too easy and I really can´t figure out the point of it.


So the competition which started 10 am on Monday was regional finals for those who passed the first test. The first task was theoretical test which consisted of 50 questions + a blind tasting of 4 wines. Questions were really good, covering geography, grape varietals, history, producers etc. Thing to note that there were no multiple choice questions in the test. Overall I can say that the test consisted of things I knew, things which are basic knowledge and of those what I just could not memorize or figure out. Here are some example questions:

Name the AOC of Bordeaux where are these wineries coming? Hosanna, Cantemerle, Haut-Marbuzet, Chateau Malartic Lagraviere.

Name the AOC which uses Prunelard, Duras and Mauzac grapes?

Where are following producers coming from: Axe Hill, Chambers..

When Jimmy Hendrix was born in 1942 a very famous rose wine brand was created in Portugal. Name it!

Name the previous name for these wine regions: Grignan-les-Adhemar, Wagram, Tejo ..

During that 1 hour we had to blind taste 4 wines. A special sheet was for it and we had to write down 5 things only: 1. Grape 2. Origin of country 3. Region 4. Year 5. ABV. And that was great! No need to waste time for writing long descriptions of systematic approach. Just sniff, analyse and write.                        There was 2 whites and 2 reds. First white was probably the most easiest – Sauvignon blanc 2013 from New-Zealand. Second wine was also no brainer – Gewürztraminer 2013 from Alsace. For me the 3rd wine was also easy which most people though its a Barbera?! I wrote Pinot Noir, Burgundy which was correct answer – and it was Louis Jadot Monthelie 2011.The last red wine was very mileading. I was stuck with between Dolcetto and Barbera. It had a little nose of candy-caramel combination with red fruits. The palate was medium body, red berries, medium acidity etc – absolute expression of Barbera. But still I wasn´t very satisfied with my answer. Many answered it Syrah. The correct answer was basic inexpensive Uco Valley (Argentina) Malbec 2013 by Salentein. Everybody was stunned! As I spoke with my lecturer Jim Gore at WSET of that unusual Malbec the only logical way he explained that it would have been modified with carbonic maceration. But would never guessed it to be Malbec from Argentina.


The next task was an 3 min interview separately with 3 judges. During that 3 min we had to explain what kind of attributes, abilities has to have Head Sommelier who will be hired to manage main resturant also creat wine lists for sister resturants, run sommelier team, buy wines, fill revenue etc.

After that we went on a break. 3 pm 4 best competitors were announced. Unfortunately I don´t know their names or where are they coming. I think in total there was around 20-25 most men with the average age 35-45. And 3 women including me.

So the first 4 started with semifinals. Each participant had to start with decanting task with classical 5 min time. The second task was recommending wines to a 6 course menu. They had to recommend 3 wines, no more than £ 80 each.

For the final task they had to recognize and describe 3 different cheeses on a board. Tell a full technical description to a glass of white wine next to it. Name a cheese what matches with the wine. And recommend a British dish what would go with it. All the cheese including the white wine were from England. Cheddar Wookey Hole, Stilton La Cave, Goats Cheese Bosworth Ash and the wine was Camel Valley Bacchus http://www.camelvalley.com/wines-and-shop/still-wines/2013-camel-valley-bacchus/

Finals will be held in Montcalm Hotel , 8th of June 2015.

London spring events

I see soon coming II wave of tastings here in London.

6th of May – Champagne Tasting by BI @ The Garden Room

11h of MayGolden State / Californian wine tasting (10am-5.30pm) Some reasons for me to go: Broc Cellars, Corison, Domaine de la Cote, Rutherford Estate etc

17-18th of MayRaw Fair has amazing line-up, especially looking for Tom Shobbrook, Le Clos de la Meslier, Larmandier-Bernier, Ch le Puy, La Coste, Emidio Pepe, Domaine Milan, Foradori, Radikon.

18-20 of MayLondon Wine Fair @ Kensignton Olympia // OMG – http://www.londonwinefair.com/content So much to do there and to see.

20th of MayKrug dinner @ Murano // Special dinner dedicated to Champagne house Krug. http://www.muranolondon.com/diary-and-press/#

And I´m sure I forgot something to add..

Sunday in Soho: Bone Daddies

In the heart of Soho between shops, lies a great ramen place – Bone Daddies. Takes no reservation – only walk in´s.

The most popular dish is Tonkotsu ramen. So to make my life easier I always go for recommendations especially when I´m visiting for the first time. Prices are from 9-12. Staff was friendly and service was just great.

Will go definitely back another time. Thank you Carla and Cassandra for a wonderful Sunday treat!

Restaurant: Hibiscus London 26/03

So for the first time since I moved here I had my first fine dining experience at Hibiscus. Hibiscus is run by French Chef Claude Bosi. Now I have heard about Bosi and his celebrated creation through media and reading Hibiscus wiki page, I´m stunned how public is the information on stuff. Par example: “During the run up to Christmas, the stress of serving 550 covers a week in a new location with a modified menu resulted in three sous chefs resigning.´´ Anyway it has interesting michelin-history with its own ups and downs.

As from beginning from entering the restaurant, greeting reception and been directed to nice table was nice and smooth. There was no question so we choose 6 course surprise tasting menus. All between the courses like service, restaurants ambient and how people moved was excellent and really really enjoyable. When courses started to come and go we felt that there is definitely room for improvement. But that improvement just didn´t come. 1 dish out of 6 was good and that was Cornish Cod “a la Grenobloise´´.

Since I´m hugh fan of foie gras I was really happy when we got it as a 5th course. Sadly it turned out that it tasted like liver and by that I want to say that I despise liver taste.I´ve experienced many forms of foie like mousse, torchon etc and I really know how it should taste. Yes foie gras is a special liver which has been fattened but shouldn´t taste like average poultry liver.

Sadly I hoped for better food. It wasn´t like the food was bad just didn´t followed my expectations at all. When the food came it was explained in very detaile. I realised that the stuff who explained was from abroad I had some difficulties of understaning. After few times of ask to repeat I gave up. As I heard there was too many detailed on the plates that I couldn´t feel and the whole taste was somehow bland and didn´t have character.

Sommelier team was mainly consisting of beautiful young females. Nice recommendations.

I truly expected more from Hibiscus because my manager at Murano warmly recommended it and heard nice things about it.

Before Hibiscus we had stunning aperitifs in Purl which is like a underground cave like cocktail bar – 50-54 Blandford Street. Marvellous cocktails with funky names and fascinating performance side. To be sure definitely book a tabel.

And our digestives took place in Sager+Wilde on 193 Hackney Rd. Wow – what an amazing place it was. We arrived quite late but had probably the best time of my day behind the bar counter with my guest and people who I actually didn´t know. Had a great chat about wine and people and enjoying a 1976 Cabernet Franc (Bourgeuil). Wow that was a moment there!

Krug Collection tasting in Moët-Hennessy UK headquater

There is one champagne I truly like more than any other and it´s Krug. And I´m talking about Grande Cuvee! I´ve tasted one or two Collection´s in my past but never so many all at once, in a same room and in the heart. Since I´m working in Mayfair, Murano as a sommelier we are also Krug ambassadors. Beside representing and selling Krug there are venues we are we invited to. And one of those just happened few days ago. My heart was pounding and I felt piece of heaven when I had entered into Moët-Hennessy UK headquater in Grosvenor Gardens. The artistic office building was like stylish museum where carefully selected furniture and sophisticated floral creation fed my soul.

It was was an open venue and when I arrived 3pm Jennifer (responsible person of global marketing) was talking about Krug Collection. We tried many drifferent vintages and sizes. Starting from Krug 2000, 2003, Clos du Mesnil 2003, Krug Collection 1989 magnum … Fantastic event I must say. All the sensatsion and emotion what happened inside of me its hard to just put in words and write in a blog. I decided to keep the shivers private.

Sante Krug!

Elevated riskiness in wine choices

Here´s a little story of my recent weird experiences. Just lately I´ve come a across with people who just intensionally pick untraditional wines. I don´t understand whether they think “how bad can it be´´ or they just don´t want to listen to me.

Explaining them in detail uniqueness of the wine and obscure side. Describing biodynamic dimensions and depth what the wine can offer and sensational oxidative notes. Here are 2 lates misfortunate picks by guests. (I work in London Mayfair´s Michelin start restaurant Murano. Will write about that cool place soon!)

They both are biodynamic wines made from Fiano grape in Campania. Don Chiciotte is produced by Pierluigi Zampaglione. It´s a tiny farm with only 2 ha of vines (6200 plants per 1 ha). Their Fiano is completely 100% natural wine. They do long maceration on lees, use wild yeast and no filtration. The result is extreme, high acidic-mineralic wine. Wine has wide array of candied citrus peel and oxidative notes.  The wine is not for everyone! A same story with Gaia Fiano. In a way truly amazing natural non-filtered wine. But yet again not everybody would like it.

After those misfortunate incidents I´ve started to think about people. Surely for now on I will try harder to determine people and avoid them making risque´ choices.

L´Octroi and Clos de la Meslerie

My two recent favourites which I still can feel echoing on my senses.

L´Octroi 2013 Condrieu, Pierre Gaillard

Le Clos de la Meslerie 2009, Vouvray, Peter Hahn



Pierre Gaillard is known since 80s when he worked for Marcel Guigal. Now he has  10 ha of vineyards in St. Joseph and also parcels in Condrieu, Cornas and Cote-Rotie. His Condrieu based L´Octroi comes from a single 1 plot Viogner vineyard in Malleval is much celebrated.

L´Octroi 2013 is amazingly rich ensemble of lychee, white peach, blooming flowers combined with finesse and majestic refreshing acidity. Even though I tried young vintage it was absolutely gorgeous. Up to 10 years longevity is no problem for this wine. Amazing structure and wide array of delightful ripe notes is the reason I fell for it. I am a sucker for fuller bodied wines! http://www.domainespierregaillard.com/

Chenin blanc from Vouvray by Peter Hahn is another drop dead beautiful wine. Le Clos de la Meslerie was saved by Peter Hahn in 1990s and now producing fine and complex organic wine with as little intervention as possible. The complexity and mouthwatering minerality is so astonishing. Though I have to say the latter is a bit more expressive type and thus no more than 2 glasses is just fine. Love it anyway! http://www.lameslerie.com/accueilA.php


Notes to myself: Gems from Rubert Berkmann Portfolio Tasting & Austrian Wine Tasting / Feb 2015

Berkmann Wine Cellars is the UK´s leading independent agent/wholesaler. They hold such estates like Champagne houses Drappier, Encry, Testulat. Antinori, Rene Barbier, Bodegas Norton, Abrau Durso, Georges Duboeuf, Delas, Lucien Le Moine, Vincent Girardin, Masi, Marco Felluga, Guado al Tasso, Maculan, Joseph Phelps, Buitenverwachting, Neil Ellis and many more..

From well recognized Austrian Premium Family estates to lesser known producers like Szigeti,  H. Schröck, Mantlerhof were represented in the beginning of Feb at Institute of Directors. Tasting was well organized. A separate room was dedicated to Pinot Noir´s from Austria.

Next chapter: London

Couple of weeks ago I moved to London. One dream ✓.

The main reason for such a big step was because of my wish to continue my [wine] studies. Why not to get international cert, set some higher goals and fulfill bigger dreams. Every single day reminds me of the fact – you only live once!

First week passed like few seconds. Though it was really awesome. I visited many legendary wine shops, bought some few nice bottles and only wondered what journey lies ahead me.

First I visited Hedonism wines – a luxury wine & spirit shop in Mayfair which is owned by one Russian bussinessman. Store has two floors, special big cabinet for Chateau d´Yquem, exceptional choice of Champagne, thousands on wines and spirits and 8 Enomatic maschines what they change every week. That was mind blowing I can tell you that.

One of the most legendary wine merchants is Berry Bros. & Rudd (Berry Brothers & Rudd) on St. James Street. It opened its doors in 1698 making it on of the oldest merchants. The company sells wine all around the world including en primeur wines from major countries. It has been a supplier for Royal Family since the reign of King George III (1738-1820). Berry Bros & Rudd was also the first to open online shop in 1995. The shop itself was like an hidden antiques shop in the middle on vain and gallant luxury shops starting from Louis Vuitton and yacht shops.

In South Kensington there is another UK well respected fine wine importer Roberson Wine. Such wines like Tahlbik, Claredon Hill, Penfold, Bitouzet-Prieur, Billecart-Salmon etc).

I attended Christmas Wine tasting at Westmister´s Churchyard last Sunday. Two tickets cost us 46 pound. First it seemed a lot of money but after the tasting I would say it was a fair fee. Dozens of importers were represented.

I´m really thrilled to be here. So many opportunities, nice people and good wine. Cheers!

Tuesday with Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection

Just yesterday I had a great opportunity to taste Moët & Chandon vintages in a vertical degustation organised by official reseller Prike in Hotel Telegraaf.

Grand Vinatges 2006, 2004, 2002, Grand Vintage Collection 1999, 1985 magnum, Grand Vintage Rose 2004, Rose 2002, Grand Vintage Collection Rose 1990.

While working in Helsinki we had Moët & Chandon as a official champagne. I have tasted many other Grand Vintages but 1985 magnum and Grand Vintage Collection 1990 rose was first time for me.

1985 was surprisingly lively, striking good fruity character and yet still fresh nature. The colour of these old champagnes are very unique. Hue varied from mature gold to amber orange.

1990 rose was one of my favourites. Looking at the colour I just thought there should be new word invented to describe older rose champagnes because it wasn´t a classical rose colour at all. The colour was really beautiful and unusual. Something like amber orange resembling persimmon-pumpkin colour. Nose was really fruity and attractive. Taste had really good balance and finish so long I can easily recall it like it was a moment ago.

2006 which I had tried in last year with Moët-Hennessy Finland was more evolved. At that time it was little bit too crisp and acidic. Now it had everything a `young´ vintage champagne could possesse: light and fresh body, refreshing and refined acidity and pleasant fruitiness.

Never had a chance to try 2002 in regular bottle. Magnum 2002 was a champagne I used every workday in Chez Dominique and until this day I can say that it had exceptional quality. While magnum is mature, the regular bottled 2002 would be best after 10 more years I suppose.


A very bubbly degustation ended with the best pelmeni ever in restaurant Tchaikovsky (Russian dumplings).


Bodegas Protos, Mastroberardino

Kõige oodatum ning hullumeelseim maikuu on möödas. Seljataga on kaks võistlust, Vilnius ja Eesti oma.

Emotsioone on küllaga ning jagub pikaks ajaks.  Siiani võin öelda, et Leedu meistrvõistlus olid minu jaoks põnevam. Teistsugused ülesanded ja situatsioonid. Olulist rolli mängis kindlasti kodupubliku puudumine, mis Kinos Sõprus tõenäoliselt minule saatuslikuks sai. Eestikatel oli väga suur üllatus kokteili tegemine. Negroni jääb ikka väga pikaks ajaks meelde.

Huvitav asjaolu võistlustega on see, kui olulist rolli mängib teooriaeksamil õnn. Kas sulle satuvad sellised küsimused mida sa tead ja millest lugenud oled. Üks absurdsemaid küsimusi oli Stolly-Bolly ning Hario V60. Eks õppida on elu lõpuni.

Kriitikanoole saadaks võistluste korralduskomitee poole. Miks ei olnud segulusikat? Äärmiselt ebamugav oli kasutada pisikesi tange pooleldi sulanud jää välja õngitsemiseks. Mise en place andis soovida.


Suur aitäh, Kaidi Kerdt ja Piero Mastroberardino! Nagu paljud teised arvan ka minagi et see oli üks kõigi aegade kõvemaid Eesti võistluseid.


Throphee Mastroberardino:


weekend in London

Just recently visited London for the first time. I have never been so overwhelmed and drunk from emotions.

There was nice spring weather with 16°C. Cherry trees where blooming everywhere and the feeling was so nice. First 2 night we spent in a bed and breakfast hotel in Stamford Hill, Hackney. Little did we know about that place but surprise was big when we realized that it´s a jew district. Wiki says: The area is particularly known for its 30,000 Hasidic Jews, making it the largest concentration of Haredi Jews in Europe. Hasidic (`loving-kindness´) Jews is a branch of Orthodox Judaism that promotes spirituality through the popularization and internalization of Jewish mysticism as the fundamental aspect of the faith. IMG_3147Saturday morning 8 am in Stamford Hill (above). We saw a lot of jews. Sounds weird really but I mean nothing bad. It was just strange to adapt with the scene. Peculiar thing about jews were their hats. In the morning they wore hats with thin edges as we all know but in the evening they had totally different ones called kolpik (Google). Resembles old Russian winter hat. Anyway it took around 45 min from Hackney to center. City was hugh and cause we didn´t have any plan we just wondered around. London is heaven on earth if we speak about food and wine – no doubt! So we popped in one place and discovered nice vegetarian Thai place – Siam eatery (24 Wellington Street, Opera Quater; fb: siameatery). Small place with couple of seats, but mostly `grab & go´ type.

There were different hot pots, noodle soups, salads and siamwiches. All around £3.85 to £5.6. Gluten free, Vegetarian and Spicy symbols everywhere.

photo (1)


Why isn´t here in Estonia anything like that??? :/ 

After that we went to Covent Garden which was former fruit and vegetable market in the central square, now a popular shopping and tourist place full of pubs, restaurants and pubs. And every pub entrance was crowded with bunch of people standing, drinking beer and socializing. 

Second day was a day I waited especially. About month ago I booked a tabel and a glorious lunch in L´Atelier de Joël Robuchon arrived. London Atelier has 1 Michelin star; Tokyo, Paris, Monaco have 2 stars; Macau and Hong Kong have 3 stars. 1 star was just enough for us.


Aperitifs on a classy rooftop terrace to where our host directed.

In the whiskey glass Orange Blossom (Woodford Bourbon, Apricot pieces, Maple Syrup, Crème d’Apricot, finished with sprays of Orange Blossom Water) and I had Yuzu Pisco in the Martini glass (Pisco 1615, Yuzu Juice, Fresh Lemon Juice, Egg White, Agave Syrup). I was impressed and happy to choose a really goodcoctail. The whipped egg white on top garnished with dried orange slice was a thing I really enjoyed. I have been judge in many Estonian bartender´s championships and never seen That! £12 each (14.59 eur) – for me it´s not cheap. But it was worth it. 

Salon Bar inside:

After a while we felt ready to go and our host was called with a tray taking our unfinished coctails and guiding to our seats on the Ground Floor. The actual dinner area was in the middle (2 floor) but the lunch menu is served in very cool dark athmophere like ground floor area.


Dishes where beautifully composed, very inspiring. It seemed like every detail was well thought. And how the food tasted was just perfect. 

I wrote in the caption about details of dishes. I found out that there was 5 Sommeliers all together working in that L´Atelier. Our Sommelier was Tania Solito – so nice and friendly young female Sommelier. She served to us Pesquera 2003 and oak influenced Pinot Bianco from Trentino. We had a lovely discussion about Trentino, South Tyrol and on Slovenian culture influence on wines. Which evolved to Marjan Simčič tasting. Thank you, Tania for that : )

It was all so good and we cried inside over the splendid tastes we had.

Next stop was Trafalgar Square and National Gallery. We where surprised when we got there the streets and the square was full of feathers. It took a while to realize  it was international pillow fight day.

When we finished touring around the city took a metro to Dalston Junction/ back to far-far Hackney. One of the reason we took that weekend trip was one particular party we wanted to attend. If you know the artists on line up list then you know what I´m talking about.

On last day we enjoyed some shopping in Boxpark Shoreditch which is pop-up mall with different cool brands. On top there where many pop up cafes e.g. one was named Bukowski. On the ground floor Hype, OnePiece even Marimekko was there. Really cool place to browse around. In the evening we bought some sushi from https://www.wasabi.uk.com/ and took direction to hotel near Standsted Aiport.

Lovely city, full of different cuisines, tastes and opportunities : ) Was easy to fell in love.

Estonia got its first vegan restaurant

Happy to announce good news – Tallinn has its first vegan place. Just this morning had a lunch there and I´m full of good emotions : )

It´s in the heart of Old Town (Rataskaevu 12) just next to other places like Rataskaevu 16, Von Krahl Theater and Von Krahl Aed (my restaurant).


Place is small and cozy with around 25-30 places.





Staff was friendly and helpful. Menu contains of 6 appetizers, few soups, 7 main courses and desserts. It was full of interesting combinations of  pure greeness, nuts, chickpeas etc.

Since I´m big fan of spicy food and mushrooms I found a dish quite quickly but more I observed more difficult it was..


Fresh salad with fried spicy mushrooms, different nuts and seeds with dressing. And it was 5 euros. I have to say the price level is amazing, from 3.50 to 8 euros.

Vegan restaurant is a place where you can order club mate! Just recently imported to Estonia!!

So happy and satisfied.

While visiting Estonia must eating places you will find in Rataskaevu street!


The new Italian DOCGs, Derrida, and the moral bankruptcy of the Italian appellation system

Do Bianchi

I will speak, therefore, of a letter.

Of the first [seventh] letter, if the alphabet, and most of the speculations which have ventured into it, are to be believed.

Jacques Derrida, “Différance” (1968)

If the alphabet is to be believed, then I imagine we must seriously consider the three new DOCGs announced by the Italian government last week: Frascati Superiore, Cannellino di Frascati, and Montecucco Sangiovese. (See my paraphrase of the agricultural minister’s press release at VinoWire and see Alfonso’s wonderfully parodic treatment here.)

Of these — in an era when the Italian DOC/G system has been rendered essentially obsolete, save for its campanilian value, by the EU CMO reforms and adoption of the overarching PDO and PGI system — the most intriguing and least absurdist is the Montecucco Sangiovese.

Montecucco (in the Tuscan province of Grosseto) has grown significantly in the last 5 years, both in terms…

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