Raw Fair 17 & 18 May 2015

As long as I have been working with wines I´ve always dreamed of going to such a big and crazy wine exhibitions like London Wine Fair etc. It surprised me when I realised that there´s 2 fair´s in `one week´ starting with a weekend and finishing next weeks Wednesdey. Let me just briefly say few words about Raw Fair. This independent wine fair was organised by Isabelle Legeron MW. It was a exquisite opportunity to meet and greet over 150 natural organic/biodynamic growers-artisans from all over the world. Emotions were way too high and I could feel everlasting moment of satisfaction of meeting producers I have admired for many years.

It has been few years now since I last tasted it. For me it is one of the best Cava´s on earth – the Recaredo. Tried new vintages and still loving it. In my opinion it is truly the collectors item at the moment. We are talking about 2 ha terroir based Xarel-lo which has unique micro climate + metodo champenoise.

As I moved to London it gave me enormous opportunity to discover new wines. One on my latest discoveries which went straight to my favourite list is Azienda Agricola Serragghia. What a tremendous and quirky producer. One of my favourites is Zibibbo. At the Raw Fair I was utmost pleased to meet the man himself – Gabrio Bini. The producer is located in a dreamy island of Pantelleria. http://www.serragghia.it/

As I continued to walk further I had to stop quit quickly because I just couldn´t walk without stopping by and meeting Don Chisciotte. Another brilliant and unique natural wine producer in the area of Alta Irpinia, near Calitri. From 1990, it was amongst the first farms in southern Italy which were converted to organic faming. They produce one of a kind Fiano variety wine which is certified organic. Don Chisciotte is 100% Fiano – 2 ha of vines, altitude 800 m, poor soil and a on harsh winds and extreme temperature changes. I had a chance to meet Nerina Zampaglione and her daughter. What a lovely warm people!! http://www.ildonchisciotte.net/

In our wine list at Murano there is one orange wine which I really like – Radikon. We have Radikon´s Pinot Grigio 2010. Amazing juicy-grape-ish wine. A wine which is not white coloured nor possess red ch. So when I ran into Radikon I just had to taste all of his cosmic wines.

Radikon is a crazy hell producer from North-Italy – Venezia-Giulia region, Oslavia. Run by Stanislav Radikon, his wife Suzana and son Saša. The wine itself is uncompromisingly natural! http://www.radikon.it/azienda

As I walked around I saw many old and new producers I know and lot of happy people sniffin-tasting natural wines. I felt happiness and gratitude.. Even met a good friend of mine from my home country Estonia – Ivo Luik. I have known since for many year now. Only person I know who is seriously into discovering some interesting bordeline natural / biodynamic wines. Always searching for something new. Big respect!

Some intresting people I saw..

One of the greates things was a chance to meet Peter Hahn. A man responsible of utterly the most fantastic Vouvray for my taste. http://www.lameslerie.com/

When I first tasted Clos de la Meslier I just couldn´ believe it. It had everything my senses and taste palate find appealing and therefore in my opinion priceless. I experienced at my work 2009 vintage on several occasions. I must admit the depth, lingering ripeness on the palate and amazing well integrated acidity makes it one of my favourites, top 3 denititely! At Raw Fair I had a chance to try younger vintages such as 2011, 2012.. The more younger it went, more time it needed. Younger vintages were too raw, but I could feel the great potensiality in them. Truly a collectors item. I will seek a opportunity and buy at least a case for the future. Big heart!

Thank you Isabelle Legeron for all of the magical work. Even now more and more I see and appreciate the true wines our ancestors drink.

The End

Elevated riskiness in wine choices

Here´s a little story of my recent weird experiences. Just lately I´ve come a across with people who just intensionally pick untraditional wines. I don´t understand whether they think “how bad can it be´´ or they just don´t want to listen to me.

Explaining them in detail uniqueness of the wine and obscure side. Describing biodynamic dimensions and depth what the wine can offer and sensational oxidative notes. Here are 2 lates misfortunate picks by guests. (I work in London Mayfair´s Michelin start restaurant Murano. Will write about that cool place soon!)

They both are biodynamic wines made from Fiano grape in Campania. Don Chiciotte is produced by Pierluigi Zampaglione. It´s a tiny farm with only 2 ha of vines (6200 plants per 1 ha). Their Fiano is completely 100% natural wine. They do long maceration on lees, use wild yeast and no filtration. The result is extreme, high acidic-mineralic wine. Wine has wide array of candied citrus peel and oxidative notes.  The wine is not for everyone! A same story with Gaia Fiano. In a way truly amazing natural non-filtered wine. But yet again not everybody would like it.

After those misfortunate incidents I´ve started to think about people. Surely for now on I will try harder to determine people and avoid them making risque´ choices.

L´Octroi and Clos de la Meslerie

My two recent favourites which I still can feel echoing on my senses.

L´Octroi 2013 Condrieu, Pierre Gaillard

Le Clos de la Meslerie 2009, Vouvray, Peter Hahn

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Pierre Gaillard is known since 80s when he worked for Marcel Guigal. Now he has  10 ha of vineyards in St. Joseph and also parcels in Condrieu, Cornas and Cote-Rotie. His Condrieu based L´Octroi comes from a single 1 plot Viogner vineyard in Malleval is much celebrated.

L´Octroi 2013 is amazingly rich ensemble of lychee, white peach, blooming flowers combined with finesse and majestic refreshing acidity. Even though I tried young vintage it was absolutely gorgeous. Up to 10 years longevity is no problem for this wine. Amazing structure and wide array of delightful ripe notes is the reason I fell for it. I am a sucker for fuller bodied wines! http://www.domainespierregaillard.com/

Chenin blanc from Vouvray by Peter Hahn is another drop dead beautiful wine. Le Clos de la Meslerie was saved by Peter Hahn in 1990s and now producing fine and complex organic wine with as little intervention as possible. The complexity and mouthwatering minerality is so astonishing. Though I have to say the latter is a bit more expressive type and thus no more than 2 glasses is just fine. Love it anyway! http://www.lameslerie.com/accueilA.php

 

Discovering biodynamic wine world (Part I)

As I´m experiencing this life chaning period right now (changing jobs) I´ve come to realise that I haven´t really given any attention to organic and biodynamic wine world.

I noticed it when I quit my last job and started working in a small firm which imports quality wines from Italy. It´s funny but Italy has never been my first choice. And now I´m working with wines from Italy and whats more funny – I quite like it :)

We only work with about 10 wine estates mostly from Tuscany. I noticed that almost every wine estate we have is producing wine considering biodynamic and organic believes. It was strange world for me at the beginning but living, reading and drinking that world helped me start to understand beneficial parts of it.

As a keen observer of wine world the taste which biodynamia has left in me is that it´s a healthy lifestyle what everyone cannot afford.

It´s a luxury and philosophy.

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